Bad clip? This was the second to last round from this clip. These are new Aggresive made clips from MidwayUSA bought a few weeks ago. This may have been the 2nd or 3rd time this particular one was used. No problems otherwise.
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Yes I know it says 270Win, I had recently sold all my scrap -06 brass so when I had this rifle drop into my lap I was left to resizing and trimming 270 brass so I could shoot it. -
First, have you ever replaced the op rod spring? If not you should
First thing I do with any garand I buy is do a complete tear down, clean , properly grease the rifle and replace op spring. Do not use extra power Wolff springs, buy one from Orion 7 or Garand Gear
I only use USGI enblocs and I have zero issues
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Nope, have not replaced anything yet. I am still figuring all this out. I have had a single instance of the empty clip not ejecting with the bolt closing on an empty chamber, but I figured that was light reloads. I have zero history on this rifle. I did field strip, clean, and lube it before first firing it. Nothing more. Mobil 1 synthetic grease.Comment
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sometimes commercial enblocs can be problematic. Change op rod spring and see how it functionsComment
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Op rod spring is due Tuesday. I stripped it down and mic'd the piston at .5215-.5220" which is below spec as I find it. I don't have gage plugs to check the cylinder. How serious is this? Can I compensate with my reloads, which right now are basically starting loads for 30-06 using IMR4895.Comment
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under .5250 is reject , yours will need repaired or op rod replacedComment
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Any suggestions on replacement? A new op rod starts me down a very expensive road and a rebuild is not in the cards right now...would rather sell and buy another from CMP before pouring a lot of money into this one. I assume cylinder is probably worn too but need time to turn a couple of quick gages to check. I have a decent lathe. Looking at it, I might be able to bore out old piston with carbide tooling. I was not able to knock it out with a 1/4" steel rod and some creative force application. Yes I am being careful to keep the op rod from getting bent. If there is a trick to drilling them out I have a few years hobby level experience with a lathe...heck I have 17-4PH stock and could machine a replacement if I can get the old one out without damaging the rod.Comment
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If you don't care about getting a "correct" op rods for the rifle, then you can spend $100.00 to $120.00 for an good op rod from a reputable seller.
Or you can send the op rod to Columbus Machine Works to have them replace the piston.
Looking for 16" SA bayonet Mfg 1918, S/N 1045220Comment
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It is a shooter. If I catch the bug badly I will look into buying a correct one, but for now I am partially unemployed due to the current business climate so I have time and machinery, not so much spare $$$. I guess if I bugger it on the lathe it needed to be replaced anyway. I hear the pistons are 17-4 and I have turned that before easily enough.Comment
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I had also pictured something like this, then found someone already making them. just cut the op rod behind the piston. I doubt the spring will care about the quarter to half inch...
https://www.standardpartsllc.com/pro...&idcategory=15
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You are going about it all the wrong way
Replace op rod piston with correct size piston or buy a new inspec op rod.Comment
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I stripped it to the bare barreled receiver. No other parts in the gas system out of spec. While I was at it I recrowned it. Not *exactly* regulation but effective at getting light pitting at the muzzle out with minimal shortening of the barrel. A light skim cut on the internal 45 bevel, a light square facing, and a light counterbore just far enough to get to clean metal. Cold blue and call it done!
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if you need a op rod pm me. i have a couple extra i would sellComment
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Will do, thanks. I have a new spring and piston in route and nickel silver solder/brazing rod in hand. I can solder electronics all day but brazing is not my strong suit...worst case I have to buy one of yours.Comment
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