I found using a snake to clean my M1 barrel to be a "gentler" approach. Just seemed that way. Only done it once. Any thoughts as to whether using a snake might be easier on the barrel than a rod/patch? I've heard that misuse of cleaning rods can damage barrels. But what are we talking about? When cleaning 50 times ( i pulled that number out of my hind quarters) a year? Very interested in any knowledge regarding this topic.
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Just my opinion, but I fail to see how a soft aluminum, brass, or fiberglass cleaning rod can damage a hard steel barrel. Even if the soldiers used the USGI issued cleaning rods, why are there so many rifles with original barrels available in such great shape ? If garand barrels were that fragile, none of them would have survived WWII.Looking for 16" SA bayonet Mfg 1918, S/N 1045220 -
The steel M10 cleaning rods are post WWII. In WWII a pull thru was issued. It was held in one end of the oiler. A chamber cleaning/take down tool was also issued along with a cup of white grease. The oiler fit in one of the butt stock holes and the chamber/take down tool and grease cup in the other hole. The same pull thru was issued with 1903 and 03A3 Springfields.Comment
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Yes, you are correct. My error. It's a bummer getting old and forgetful.Originally posted by RDS View PostLooking for 16" SA bayonet Mfg 1918, S/N 1045220Comment
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Believe me I know the feeling. Getting old has its pit falls.Comment
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Garand barrels arent delicate flowers as some seem to think. Need to read the article in the GCA where they purposly tried to wear the muzzle with a steel segmented cleaning rod. Long story short, you wont wear it out from cleaning in your and your kids lifetime
Personally I dont care for bore snakes. Cleaning rod, brushes and a jag for meComment
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I couldn't imagine what you would have to do with that cleaning rod to damage the barrel. The reason I bought the snake was to have a reliable backup. I had one cleaning rod and my son sheered the plastic loop in the end of the rod (deep in - wasn't easy to remove) while cleaning his 10/22. In a jam, the bore snake was available and I used it to finish up my rifle. The rod is definitely easier to use. Now I have 2. I'll try a jag in the future.Last edited by Garanditis; 09-12-2016, 07:32 PM.Comment
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Quite possibly the snake I bought didn't get a fair shake but I used it a couple times and then it sat in a box and I never really used it again but it's there.
m14brianComment
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I don't rely on my bore snakes too clean..... I us them as a quick and dirty sweeper that gets the chunks of carbon out nothing more..Comment
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Garanditis commented
09-12-2016, 08:36 PM
I've only been in the GCA for about a year now. Any chance this article is available online?
Part 2 of the article on Muzzle Erosion is in the Spring 2009 issue of the GCA magazine.
I don't have part 1, but the Spring 2009 gives a brief overview of part 1 and the results of their test.
I would post copies here on the forum but the GCA gestapo would come after me for copyright infringement.
Last edited by jak; 09-16-2016, 02:30 PM.Looking for 16" SA bayonet Mfg 1918, S/N 1045220Comment
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The snake is good for a "quick and dirty" cleaning right after a range session but, as others have said, rod, patch, jag are the way to get a really clean bore. I believe the one area of concern, when cleaning with a rod, is protecting the barrel crown when, if damaged, can affect accuracy big time.Comment
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Have to agree with Mike on barrel crown damage. Had a Browning Safarie in 300 Win Mag that was a tack driver and it some how got a nick in the barrel crown and I thought I had pickup a shotgun instead of my favorite Elk rifle. Take care of the crown!Comment
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I start with the bore snake to get the big stuff but finish with the rod. Can't beat patches.Comment
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To pile on, I am with Phil. I use them for a quick wipe. However, that said, if you break a bore snake in your bore you will most likely never use one again.Comment
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I've never once cleaned any of my rifles...just kidding,I prefer the rod.Comment
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