Hra 5517xxx

[cadamson]

Picked this rifle up yesterday. Its a HRA and all the parts seem to be original to the rifle. Im by no means an expert on M1's so I post this and future photos to get you guys involved in figuring out if this is a "correct rifle" or "collectable" or just a shooter. I don't want to take a "collectable" rifle out and use it like a "shooter" if that makes sense. Just want to know what I actually have before going forward. This is my first M1 after passing on a bunch mainly because of not having the cash at the time I find one for sale. This one popped up for sale and I purchased without seeing just cause Ive been wanting one for years and the $$ was available at the time. Let me know what other pictures would be helpful and Ill get them posted as soon as I can. Thanks!

Receiver is marked
US Rifle
Cal 30 M1
H&R Arms Co
5517xxx

Barrel
"Sideways Y" HRA 6535448 10-54 RS40 - PM

Op Rod
6535382 HRA

Receiver side under wood
L
6528291

Trigger Group
6528290-HRA N

Hammer
HRA 5546008

Bolt
6528287 HRA
`U`

Gas tube nut
HRA with a "O"

[Orlando]

Those parts are correct for the rifle.

[cadamson]

Those parts are correct for the rifle.

Would this rifle probably been sold as a correct grade M1? It doesn't seem to have been shot much at all. I payed $810 for the rifle, is that a correct value for it and use it as a shooter, or should it be preserved in its current condition? Does it hold a higher value being "correct"? I would rather find a shooter grade gun to use and keep this one in it current condition if it is of higher value. Thanks for any information. I just hate to bang it around shooting if it is worth preserving and find another rifle that is more of a shooter grade. Thanks for any information!

[Orlando]

Its not that easy as all parts need to be checked to see the manufacture, even the unmarked parts there are things to look for to identify them. It could be a Correct or Collector grade or could be a mixmaster than someone corrected. Only way to know is to have CMP do a serial number search. There is a $25 charge for them to search records, they may or may not find anything as their records are incomplete before 1996 http://thecmp.org/faq/will-the-cmp-r...he-dcm-or-cmp/
The price you paid is a good deal on a rifle in that condition, if rifle does come back as a Correct or Collector grade I would put it up and buy another rifle for shooting. The garand rifle market has gotten soft lately but I would expect a documented Correct grade would be in the $1350-$1500 range and the documented Collector grade $1700-$1800 range

[cadamson]

Thanks Orlado, Ill get in touch with the CMP and see what I can find out.

[TJT]

It's a tool. Tools are meant to be used. Safe-queens be damned!!!
Jon

[cadamson]

It's a tool. Tools are meant to be used. Safe-queens be damned!!!
Jon

I understand your point, I just would like to know more about the rifle. All parts correct vs all original, or pieced together to look original. Im good with the price payed even if its just a rack grade, but if its worth a few extra bucks, that's just icing on the cake. Thanks for all the responses!

[TJT]

A rifle is only original ONCE---the day it leaves the armory. There is a HUGE difference between original and corrected to look original.
Jon

[Orlando]

While I agree with Jon to a point there are some Garands I own I will not shoot as I am not going to lower the value of them. A unissued 5.8 Mil SA, and Unissued Type II NM for example. Firing them would significantly lower their value. I have "plenty" of other garands to shoot

[CCyooper]

Only way to tell is contact the CMP. When the Greek rifles were sold many service grades were as nice as collector grades except a simple piece like a bolt or trigger group might have been missing. I had service grades that were equal to collector grades , SA and HRA that were easily corrected.