Hello folks,
The last Garand I purchased from CMP was a SG from March of this year. I noticed when I initially field stripped it, that the lock on the cylinder was on WAY TO BLOODY TIGHT! So tight, I had to get my father to hold the butt end of the rifle while I gently wrapped the barrel and gas cylinder in cardboard, placed that part in a vice and put a large crescent wrench on the lock. Two hits of the hammer and it came free. I think even by the armorer’s standards thats not tight, that’s BLOODY SCREAMING TIGHT. Now when I go to reinstall that part, it goes to about 3-4 o clock and locks up solid. Can’t budge it forward or even tap it. I took it back off and have it on my desk. What is the fix for this? Also of note, the hand guard does have a business card thickness between it and the gas cylinder which is ideal so nothing is wrong there. I just can reattach my lock without a crescent wrench. Help! Thanks to all in advance.
Sean
The last Garand I purchased from CMP was a SG from March of this year. I noticed when I initially field stripped it, that the lock on the cylinder was on WAY TO BLOODY TIGHT! So tight, I had to get my father to hold the butt end of the rifle while I gently wrapped the barrel and gas cylinder in cardboard, placed that part in a vice and put a large crescent wrench on the lock. Two hits of the hammer and it came free. I think even by the armorer’s standards thats not tight, that’s BLOODY SCREAMING TIGHT. Now when I go to reinstall that part, it goes to about 3-4 o clock and locks up solid. Can’t budge it forward or even tap it. I took it back off and have it on my desk. What is the fix for this? Also of note, the hand guard does have a business card thickness between it and the gas cylinder which is ideal so nothing is wrong there. I just can reattach my lock without a crescent wrench. Help! Thanks to all in advance.
Sean
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