Trigger guard

[AJ Brink]

I have a milled trigger, Ive had it for a number of years, I bought it because my old trigger guard, which was milled was pretty worn where the clip locks into the trigger group. This trigger guard has a D or an O stamped on the inside. Where the trigger is located. It it real or a reproduction milled guard? AJ

[Jersey Devil]

I've never seen a milled guard, or even a stamped guard with a milled hook for that matter, which was repro or current production. Many milled guards have an assortment of letter codes stamped on the inside boittom (where your trigger finger would rub against). I'd hedge a good bet that yours is authentic USGI.

[RCS]

At some point in time, the lugs were swedged or resized back to their original shape and when the large pad in the trigger housing was reduced in size, a rebuild -1 was added

[AJ Brink]

Something ain’t right with my trigger assembly, I noticed your hammer has a drawing number on it, mine does not. Also on your spring casting about 3 coils are showing, it’s so tight my trigger fails to release, the hammer the only way I could shoot was to recock the trigger guard really very very stiff. Then my trigger locked aft and fails to release the hammer. The main spring is not right. I tried to dis assemble it and found some corrosion one pin I think is corroded, the small rear one I placed the entire assembly in Mouse milk and will let it soak for at least 3 days. Thanks for the photos RCS. Salute AJ. (Well the Mouse Milk worked I was able to disassemble my trigger Assembly, the MM turned all this crud loose, I-used SprayWay aerosol and cleaned all the parts, great stuff, I know CMP advises never lube the trigger group, I used Remington Oil where the safety is against the housing and pin. The firing pin spring was really crud filled, got it all back together works really smoothly. Plan to go to the range in February. AJ

[lapriester]

I know of no one who has ever manufactured a repro milled trigger guard.

[lapriester]

CMP does not say "do not lubricate the trigger group". Several areas need grease lubrication in order for it to operate reliably, smoothly. You are not supposed to lube the sear and hammer hook areas. All pins and other metal to metal contact areas need to be greased lightly.

[AJ Brink]

Hi Corporal Iapriester: Ya I understand that, I think my Garand has a D stamp. I’ve got a complete spare trigger assembly,and it has no letter stamped on the Milled trigger guard. I had never Hurd of any remanufacture milled trigger guards, that’s why I asked the forum, not a big deal, I-was just curious. Don’t they reproduce stamped Trigger guards? HNY AJ. I don’t really care what they say, about lubrication of the trigger assembly. I have always lubed the wear areas, when I got my last Garand it was lubed pretty heavy. AJ

[lapriester]

Something ain’t right with my trigger assembly, I noticed your hammer has a drawing number on it, mine does not. Also on your spring casting about 3 coils are showing, it’s so tight my trigger fails to release, the hammer the only way I could shoot was to recock the trigger guard really very very stiff. Then my trigger locked aft and fails to release the hammer. The main spring is not right. I tried to dis assemble it and found some corrosion one pin I think is corroded, the small rear one I placed the entire assembly in Mouse milk and will let it soak for at least 3 days. Thanks for the photos RCS. Salute AJ. (Well the Mouse Milk worked I was able to disassemble my trigger Assembly, the MM turned all this crud loose, I-used SprayWay aerosol and cleaned all the parts, great stuff, I know CMP advises never lube the trigger group, I used Remington Oil where the safety is against the housing and pin. The firing pin spring was really crud filled, got it all back together works really smoothly. Plan to go to the range in February. AJ

Lesson learned. No Garand, regardless of where obtained, should ever see a range until the rifle has been fully disassembled, cleaned and properly lubricated. Properly lubricated means grease and not oil in most areas of metal to metal contact. A good rule is if you see wear, grease it. Only oil in most areas will often do more to hamper proper operation. Failing to get 60 or more years worth of packed in crap out of certain hidden areas (like out of that spring housing) can result in irreparable damage to associated parts.

[lapriester]

Hi Corporal Iapriester: Ya I understand that, I think my Garand has a D stamp. I’ve got a complete spare trigger assembly,and it has no letter stamped on the Milled trigger guard. I had never Hurd of any remanufacture milled trigger guards, that’s why I asked the forum, not a big deal, I-was just curious. Don’t they reproduce stamped Trigger guards? HNY AJ. I don’t really care what they say, about lubrication of the trigger assembly. I have always lubed the wear areas, when I got my last Garand it was lubed pretty heavy. AJ

Just don't grease the hammer hooks or sear. That can encourage doubling or bump fires. Elsewhere in the trigger housing go for it. 👍

[AJ Brink]

Ya I hear ya: I’ve never paid much attention to the CMP advise about the trigger guard assembly and lubing Proceedures, their is lots of metal to metal rubbing going on in that assembly, the Safety Sear, the pins, I noticed both of my assembly pins are worn, probably need to be replaced, the long safety spring, after I took my trigger apart, cleaned it, lubed it, and reassembled it, the Trigger assembly was so smooth and it made a world of difference, thanks for all the posts on this subject, I am ready for the range in February! AJ

[MRusan]

Page 21 figure 33 shows all of the greasing areas here: https://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/USA...DFs/FM23-5.pdf
As a matter of fact, that page mentions overall lubrication. Page 23 item 23 is also worth a read.

[AJ Brink]

Hello MRusan: great reading for some reason my IPad said no. Happens all the time! I have a very old Army digest maintenance presedures was issued back in the 60s and 70s don’t know when they stopped that program. My neighbor owned a Demilled M-14 I think it’s a Springfield, I guess you can buy them, semiautomatic, no auto switch, a lot of the components in the trigger group resemble my Garand. 308 not a 30/06, It’s been a few years sense I sold my last Garand, should have never sold it, ment keeping my family cool in the Texas Summer. Only thing ?I owned that made me welcome in a pawn shop. HNY AJ