CMP stock that came with Winchester Garand

[GColloton]

I received the M1 Garand Service Grade Winchester I ordered several months ago from the CMP last week. It came with a replacement stock which is bare walnut.
After lots of reading I decided to just go with TruOil. I know BLO and Tung are popular but I liked what I researched about TruOil being a blend of those and people’s reviews.
I’ve got about five coats on now and it’s a really nice full gloss. My question is needing advice on what to do next. After I put another coat or two on should I keep gloss or knock it down to a satin? I know it’s preference. The gloss looks great, but they were probably satin when originally put in service. I know it’s a CMP (Boyd’s?) stock and not an original so I’m probably not hurting value with gloss or satin. If it was original I wouldn’t have done anything to it besides a light cleaning. I hadn’t really researched anything about wax either. After this last coat it’s super smooth. My process was:
I steamed out a couple small dings/dents and a deep scratch. (That really works great by the way) Sanded smooth and I left the final sand dust on the stock. I reduced the TruOil 50/50 with mineral spirits and made a slurry with the existing dust and worked it into the open pores.
Let it dry, and used 400 sand paper lightly. I again used the 50/50 mix and this time wet sanded to create a slurry and worked that into the remaining pores. I use just enough so that it’s lightly tacky when I’m done. I apply by hand and rub in till my hand is warm.
Repeat prep And wiped down with a clean lint free cloth and this time used more TruOil about an 80/20 mix. Using very little again.
Repeated two more times and prepped and cleaned with 0000 steel wool and lint free cloth and TruOil was full strength.
This is my first time and it looks fantastic so I’m pretty happy so far. I was careful around the cartouche when prepping also.
I also put the reduced coat on the inside to seal it twice.
This worked for me, I’m sure different processes for everyone. I put all that together from different videos and reading.
Another tip I read was use a small punch through the TruOil foil. I guess this reduces or eliminates the boogers that build up around the cap and get onto the stock.
Lastly, I removed the trigger assembly, then took the stock off the receiver / barrel. Then I removed the gas plug screw and cover, slid off the front handguard and then slid the rear handguard forward. There was no roll pin in that ferrule. Do I need one? And all the videos I watched the disassembled the entire gun to get those off. I didn’t have to, is that a problem you think when I re-assemble?
Thanks, Garry

[Orlando]

Most people do not use tru oil because its more of a varnish and shiney and not a military looking finish. Its up to you if you want to try and knock down the finish. Yes you should install a roll pin in lower band. Your local hardware store will have them. Split pi or roll pin 1/8in x 1/2 in

[TJT]

Should've just used linseed or tung oil. Shiney stocks look out of place on military rifles but hey, it's your rifle. If YOU like it, that's all that matters.
Jon

[GColloton]

For some reason I definitely thought that Tung, BLO, and TruOil all produced a gloss finish and all had to be buffed down to satin. It sounds like I was wrong. The stock looks great and is super smooth with zero imperfections that I can see, but I agree it looks out of place in the gloss finish and I’d rather have it satin to match my original Savage enfield and Mosin. What are my options at this point? I don’t want to strip it. I’d like to hear from anyone with knowledge of going from gloss to satin. White or gray scotch brite pad? Rottenstone? And I also just read that birchwood casey makes a product to use over TruOil to bring from gloss to satin called Stock sheen and conditioner. Has anyone used that? It gets mixed reviews. See details below. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

“DETAILS
THE EASY WAY TO GIVE YOUR NEWLY FINISHED TRU-OIL® GUN STOCK A TRADITIONAL SATIN FINISH OR TO CLEAN, BEAUTIFY AND POLISH YOUR OLD STOCK. REMOVES SURFACE IMPERFECTIONS AND GIVES YOUR STOCK A SMOOTH, HAND-RUBBED FINISH. ALSO PROTECTS AGAINST WEATHER AND HANDLING. WILL NOT FINGERMARK.”

[GColloton]

I gently used an “extra fine” scotch brite pad followed by 0000 steel wool on the stock going on the direction of the grain. I used a clean lint free rag with denatured alcohol (it’s a clean wiping solvent) to remove dust, it works better than a tack cloth and the alcohol evaporates in minutes and leaves no residue. It looks satin now and I could probably leave it as is, but I’m waiting on the stock sheen conditioner and will polish with that. I’ve been told by a few people that it will even everything out and remove any fine “scratches” you might see while leaving a nice matte to satin finish. It’s coming this weekend and I’ll post some pics when I’m done.

[GColloton]

I ended up using the stock sheen and conditioner and I think it came out a really nice matte / Satin low luster finish. Here’s a pic with my original Mosin and Savage Enfield for finish comparison. There’s also a couple of before, during, and after.

[m14brian]

That came out really nice!
m14brian

[GColloton]

Thanks very much!

[MRusan]

Looks pretty slick if you ask me.

[Smokey]

Other than being more easily seen by reflecting sunlight etc., the main issue I have with shiny stocks might be a slick surface that's harder to hold onto.

[GColloton]

I shot a few boxes of ammo last weekend on a pretty hot day here in NY and didn’t have any issues with grip, even with sweaty hands. In person the finish is almost identical to my Savage Enfield that has its original finish. My son and I ended up shooting all my Garand factory ammo and now I’m having trouble finding more online and at my local shops.

[Smokey]

Glad it all worked out on the stock then. Have you considered reloading the fired cases? Components, while also affected by the recent buying spree, are still available.

[GColloton]

I hadn’t considered that to be honest. Is it costly to set up or difficult to do? Would I be able to load other ammo as well?
I guess I never thought about it because I assumed it would cost a fortune to set up and might be above my pay grade to do.

[Smokey]

Reloading requires a few hundred dollars in "capital equipment" to get started. In the end it saves a huge amount of money in cost per shot. It's not particularly difficult, but does require attention to detail. There's a whole section on reloading in this forum.

[AJ Brink]

I do like a nice finish on a stock. I use TruOil it drys in 24 hours, but I let it set for 48 maybe longer. I use scotch Brite medium to smooth, wetting the stock, and using an Iron thru a rag will take out scratches,and some dents.I know that’s not how they came out of the factory, very dark walnut, fornby has a formula for wood that removes the darkness, you have to be careful, some strippers are not good on wood, especially stocks. I’ve used napfa, dry cleaning solvent. Kinda got the horse before the cart, I do all the prep work before I use the tru oil. I’ve been told if your stock has been bed Ed never apply Any thing in that area. I am an old flight crew member, if that means anything. As I’ve gotten older in my 70s now, seems my skin mostly my hands I think contain acid, so when ever I handle my firearms I wear gloves, when I clean plastic disposable and nomex gloves when I go to the range. Thank you for all the posting, really enjoy reading have a great holiday, Salute. AJ